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India has always been fixated with Bombay. It is India's archetypal metropolis, imbibing the most extreme of paradoxes. The dream factory is glitzy, home to Bollywood, a thriving commerce industry, the moneyed swish set and some of the country's best educational institutions, and yet it has a convoluted underbelly comprising gangsters, dirt cheap prostitutes, street children and the world's largest slums.... more |
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India has always been fixated with Bombay. It is India's archetypal metropolis, imbibing the most extreme of paradoxes. The dream factory is glitzy, home to Bollywood, a thriving commerce industry, the moneyed swish set and some of the country's best educational institutions, and yet it has a convoluted underbelly comprising gangsters, dirt cheap prostitutes, street children and the world's largest slums.
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The first thing that will strike you about Bombay is the crowd. It is everywhere and it is always moving, making Bombay a heaving mass of population, buzzing with a nervous energy.
Initially a group of seven islands that were merged together by land reclamation, Bombay has a rich Colonial heritage. An amble through the fort area is testimony to the fact, housing beautiful Gothic-Elizabethan buildings and monuments.
Bombay is essentially an immigrant city, and has a myriad faces. To discover one of them, walk through the city's various maidans. Amidst broken glass, refuse and bottles, the grounds are full of cricket enthusiasts, with each maidan housing several pitches. The air is filled with the crack of the bat, the cheers of the players and numerous balls doing the rounds as seven to ten matches are being played at the same time. Anyone can join in the games.
The distinct collage of Bombay's population is reflected in the shopping. It is an inherent urban city where everything is on offer for everyone; where second hand book bazaars coexist with high-end shopping malls, where flower markets jostle with flea markets, where the quaint antiques market is belligerently housed in an area called the Chor Bazaar (Thieves' Bazaar).
And the street food. You haven't seen Bombay if you haven’t sampled the street food - varied and vivacious, scrumptious and spicy, it will leave you asking for more as your eyes water and ears burn. Wash it down then with a tall glass of juice available all over Bombay at stalls.
Having listed out the essentials, what one has to understand is that Bombay escapes definition. It is a city constantly moving, changing, evolving, and it can be known only by being experienced. It has a resilient character, as seen every day in the thousands of dabbawallas who work tirelessly to ferry lunches across a myriad offices or in its Irani restaurants that are still running, in the face of utter commercialisation.
Everything exaggerated, impossible or unimaginable you might have heard about Bombay is in fact true, and more. Look beyond its glaring disparities and you will discover its seductive spirit that keeps the city alive, making it what it is.
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| Mumbai is India's quintessential cosmopolitan city, and what is a city without its particular brand of shopping? Mumbai doesn't disappoint, and how. Quaint antiques markets, book bazaars, swanky malls and festive flea markets, the city accommodates all. For bags, beads and clothes in a kaleidoscope of colours, go to the Colaba Causeway. It is the boho district of Mumbai, attracting the youth, selling everything from junk jewellery to fake pashmina shawls and curios. Reduce the price quoted to you by half and start haggling.
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Another popular shopping venue frequented by the hip of the city, particularly college students, is Linking Road in Bandra. Housing international designer stores as well as pavement shops, this is where the latest fashion is unveiled on the streets. Linking Road also has a large section devoted to shoes, from posh stores to pavement vendors.
Fashion Street used to be a favourite amongst the fashion conscious but is now fast losing appeal, having acquired a jaded, sleazy feel. But look opposite the road - a lovely second hand book market, offering books on everything under the sun. For the latest in labels and designer wear, visit the new Inorbit Mall. Another such venue is Crossroads opposite Haji Ali. Juhu is where all the top Indian designers have their exclusive stores.
Chor Bazaar (Thieves' Market) is where you can pick up antiques, from a broken gramophone to chipped China teapots. Take care of your car though. A popular bit of rumour goes that if you leave your car parked here for only five minutes, it will be disintegrated then and there and the parts sold in the market itself. |
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Mumbai never sleeps. This city of dreams is characterised by its high energy. Set out at any time of the night and you will spot a couple of traffic jams here and there. Carter Road and the seaside area are always milling with people until the early morning hours and here you see a range of Mumbai's population - decked up for a night out at one of Mumbai's elite nightclubs, the PYTs of Mumbai amble along with denim clad youths simply out to have a good time, who in turn mingle with scores of people sitting by the marine drive, well, just sitting. These are people going out to shake a leg, or making way towards one of the late night eating shacks. If it's sufficiently late in the night you will also see office goers starting their day. Stroll down Mumbai's sharp arc of marine drive and there will always be cigarette vendors around at all times of the night and tea and coffee will be doing the rounds.
Some popular nightclubs in Mumbai include Polly Esther, Red Light, Enigma, Insomnia and Squeeze. |
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